Common hornbeam
Carpinus betulus
Makes a dense deciduous hedge that takes clipping well, but left to grow freely it also works as a shade tree in a sunny or partly shaded garden.
- Sandy
- Loam
- Clay
- Chalky, stony
Kertokos (roughly ‘garden-smart’ in Hungarian) gathers gardening advice on the questions we come across every day at work: what to plant in full sun or on the shady side of the house, what kind of soil you have, and what should go under new turf or a young tree. We chose the plants for the climate of Budapest’s eastern districts and the towns just east of the city, and took every figure from a source you can check, so your garden isn’t left to guesswork.
The 46 plants in the finder are described from the plant profiles of the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) and the Missouri Botanical Garden. We give hardiness as USDA zones, which are calculated for a continental climate with cold winters and hot summers, because the RHS ratings were made for wet British winters and tend to be more cautious. We also checked every species against the EU list of invasive species and the Hungarian expert lists.
The soil drawings don’t show a made-up average either, but the measured layers of real, published Hungarian soil profiles. The layer guides for turf, tree planting and irrigation draw on the RHS, American university extension guides, the Hungarian-language design handbooks of irrigation manufacturers and documents from Budapest’s District 16 council. Your own garden may differ, so on every page we also explain how to check things on the spot.
Narrow the list by light, soil and drought tolerance, and we’ll show you which trees, fruit trees, shrubs, perennials, grasses, climbers or ground cover plants will be happy in the spot you have in mind. Each of the 46 cards shows hardiness, mature size and any warnings, so there are no surprises after planting.
Carpinus betulus
Makes a dense deciduous hedge that takes clipping well, but left to grow freely it also works as a shade tree in a sunny or partly shaded garden.
Acer campestre
An undemanding native maple that you can grow as a tall clipped hedge or as a smaller shade tree, and Hungarian measurements in hill country show that it copes well with drought too.
Ligustrum vulgare
A native hedging plant that knits together quickly and copes well with chalky and sandy soils, summer drought and urban conditions.
The berries are harmful to both people and dogs if eaten, and it readily self-seeds in the wilder corners of the garden.
Taxus baccata
An evergreen that clips well for hedging and topiary and grows in sun, partial shade and full shade alike, so you can rely on it even on the north side of the house.
Toxic to people and pets if eaten, so think twice before planting it near children and dogs, and wear gloves when pruning.
Pyracantha coccinea
Makes an almost impenetrable thorny hedge or boundary, with white flowers in spring and orange-red berries in autumn.
The branches are thorny, the berries are not edible, and it can be attacked by the bacterial disease fireblight.
Photinia × fraseri 'Red Robin'
An evergreen hedging plant whose spring shoots unfurl in bronze and bright red, and once established it copes with summer drought as well.
Its hardiness is borderline and it may die back in a harsh winter, so give it a sheltered spot, for example against a south- or west-facing wall of the house.
Fraxinus ornus
A native, sun-loving shade tree that copes well with chalky soil and summer drought, which makes it a good choice for a dry, sunny garden.
Its branches are brittle and may snap in strong wind or freezing rain.
Acer tataricum
A small native maple that tolerates drought and clay soil and turns yellow and red in autumn, so it can be a good shade tree even in a smaller garden.
Tilia tomentosa
The most drought-tolerant of the limes, it also copes well with urban conditions and grows into a broad, spreading shade tree in a large garden.
It draws huge numbers of bees when in flower and in time reaches 15-30 metres, so don't plant it over a terrace or in a small garden.
Acer platanoides 'Globosum'
A compact shade tree with a dense, rounded crown whose leaves turn yellow in autumn, so it suits front gardens and street frontages well.
Its roots run shallow, so over time it can lift a nearby path or driveway.
Crataegus × media 'Paul's Scarlet' (syn. C. laevigata 'Paul's Scarlet')
A small ornamental tree that is covered in double, light red flowers in spring and bears orange-red fruit in autumn.
The branches are thorny, the fruit is not edible, and it can be attacked by fireblight.
Malus 'Evereste'
An ornamental tree for small gardens: red buds open into white flowers, and in autumn it is laden with small yellowish-orange crab apples.
The seeds contain a toxic compound, and it can be attacked by fireblight and scab.
Cornus mas
A large shrub or small tree that flowers yellow in early spring, before the leaves appear; you can also grow it as a hedge, and its tart fruit is edible.
It throws up root suckers, so remove them in good time if you don't want it to spread.
Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple'
A shrub with burgundy foliage that is covered in summer with smoky, pinkish-purple plumes, and copes well with drought and poor, stony soil.
It does not like waterlogged, poorly drained soil, so on heavy ground make sure the drainage is good.
Potentilla fruticosa (syn. Dasiphora fruticosa)
A low shrub that flowers yellow from early summer to September, works well as a low hedge, and tolerates drought, clay soil and urban conditions.
The fruit is not edible, and in humid summer heat it may grow less vigorously.
Spiraea × vanhouttei
A shrub with gracefully arching branches that is smothered in masses of tiny white flowers in spring, and you can plant it as a hedge too.
It can be attacked by fireblight and powdery mildew.
Hibiscus syriacus
A large-flowered shrub that blooms from early summer into autumn and handles summer heat, drought and city air well.
The species self-seeds freely, so keep an eye out for seedlings popping up around the garden.
Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight'
A shrub that flowers from midsummer into autumn, with large, cone-shaped flower heads that fade from greenish yellow to pink, and one of the hardiest hydrangeas.
It can cause an allergic reaction on contact with the skin, and it is harmful to pets if swallowed.
Viburnum lantana
A large shrub native to Europe that copes well with dry, chalky soil, flowers white in spring and bears fruit ripening from red to black in summer, and you can plant it as a screening hedge.
The fruit is not fit for human consumption.
Weigela florida
An easy-going shrub with pink, funnel-shaped flowers in spring that often produces a few more blooms in summer, and it tolerates clay soil too.
Lavandula angustifolia
A fragrant, sun-loving perennial that positively thrives on poor, chalky or sandy soil and in summer drought.
It can die in waterlogged soil, and it attracts lots of bees when in flower.
Nepeta × faassenii
An aromatic perennial with grey-green leaves that bears lavender-blue flowers from late spring to September and puts up with dry soil.
It attracts lots of bees, so think twice before planting it next to seating.
Echinacea purpurea
A purplish-pink perennial with a long summer flowering season that tolerates drought and clay or shallow, stony soil, and draws in pollinating insects.
If you leave the seed heads on the plant, it self-seeds readily.
Salvia nemorosa 'Caradonna'
A perennial with blue-violet flower spikes that blooms from late spring to early summer and then sporadically again, and it can ride out spells of summer drought without watering.
It may self-seed where it grows, and it attracts lots of bees.
Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude' (syn. Sedum 'Herbstfreude')
A fleshy-leaved perennial whose flat flower heads turn from pink to deep red in autumn, and it copes well with blazing sun and drought.
It can rot in wet, poorly drained soil, and it flops open in shade or in overly rich soil.
Hemerocallis 'Stella de Oro'
A low, yellow-flowered daylily with an exceptionally long flowering season from late spring to late summer, which grows in almost any garden soil.
Toxic to cats.
Achillea filipendulina 'Gold Plate'
A tall perennial with golden-yellow, plate-like flower heads and aromatic leaves that flowers all summer long in a sunny, dry spot.
The tall flower stems often need staking, and it dislikes heavy clay that stays wet in winter.
Salvia yangii (syn. Perovskia atriplicifolia)
A perennial with aromatic grey-green foliage and lavender-blue flowers from summer into autumn, which copes well with dry, chalky soil.
It tends to flop open as it gets older.
Bergenia cordifolia
A perennial with large, glossy, leathery leaves and deep pink flowers in spring, which you can also use as ground cover in partial or full shade.
It dislikes intense heat and prolonged drought.
Festuca glauca
A low ornamental grass that forms dense, bluish-grey, hedgehog-like tufts and looks its best in sunny, dry spots.
It is short-lived, so it is worth rejuvenating it by division every two or three years.
Calamagrostis × acutiflora 'Karl Foerster'
An ornamental grass with stiff, upright flower stems whose seed heads stay on the plant through winter, yet it does not self-seed because it is sterile.
It is not drought-tolerant and needs regular watering in dry summer weather.
Helictotrichon sempervirens
An ornamental grass that forms a steel-blue, spiky clump, grows much larger than blue fescue and shows its best colour on dry soil.
In humid weather it can be attacked by rust, and in wet, poorly drained soil its crown may rot.
Sesleria autumnalis
A low ornamental grass with yellowish-green leaves and silvery-white flower spikes in autumn, which you can plant as ground cover under trees or in a sunny spot.
It will not tolerate acidic soil and is less keen on humid summer heat.
Thymus serpyllum
A fragrant, carpet-forming ground cover for the sunniest, driest parts of the garden that grows even in shallow, stony soil.
In wet, poorly drained soil it suffers from root rot, so don't mulch it.
Vinca minor
An evergreen ground cover with lavender-blue flowers that quickly forms a dense carpet, even in shade and dry soil.
It spreads vigorously and can creep into the lawn and neighbouring beds.
Geranium macrorrhizum
Dense, weed-suppressing ground cover with aromatic leaves and purplish-pink flowers, and one of the few plants that cope with dry shade.
Juniperus horizontalis 'Wiltonii' (syn. 'Blue Rug')
A silvery-blue evergreen that hugs the ground, thrives even on a dry, stony bank in blazing sun, and helps to hold the soil in place.
Harmful if eaten and may cause skin allergies, and junipers can act as alternate hosts for rust diseases of apples and pears.
Sedum spurium (syn. Phedimus spurius)
A low ground cover with succulent leaves for the driest sunny spots, which gets by even on poor soil and whose leaves turn burgundy in autumn.
It does not like being overwatered.
Hedera helix
An evergreen climber that clings to walls and fences with its aerial roots without any support, and in shade you can use it as ground cover as well.
Harmful if eaten and may irritate the skin; over time it grows so heavy that it can widen existing cracks and work its way into gutters and under roof tiles, so cut it back regularly.
Lonicera caprifolium
A twining climber with fragrant, creamy-white flowers that does best in partial shade, trained up a support or a pergola.
Its orange-red berries are not edible.
Clematis viticella
A clematis with purple or violet-blue flowers from summer into early autumn; it belongs to pruning group 3, so you can cut it back hard every year, and it copes well with chalky soil.
It can irritate the skin, so wear gloves when pruning, and keep its base shaded and evenly moist.
Rosa 'New Dawn'
A climbing rose with pale pink, double, fragrant flowers that repeat from late spring until the frosts, and it is notably disease-resistant.
It is thorny, the hips are not edible, and it needs regular, deep watering.
Prunus armeniaca
A self-fertile fruit tree, so even a single tree can crop if it gets a sunny, sheltered spot.
Its early blossom is easily lost to late spring frosts, so avoid frost pockets and low-lying spots, and the kernels are harmful if eaten.
Cydonia oblonga
A self-fertile, compact fruit tree for a sunny, sheltered part of the garden that likes deep, fertile, moisture-retentive soil.
It can be attacked by fireblight, its seeds contain a toxic compound, and young trees may throw up root suckers.
Malus domestica
Its final size is set by the rootstock, so on a dwarfing rootstock you can grow an apple tree even in a small garden, but most varieties need a pollination partner.
It can be attacked by scab and fireblight, and a tree on a dwarfing rootstock needs good soil and watering during drought.
Pyrus communis
On quince rootstock it can be grown in a smaller garden, and it tolerates heavy clay soil better than many other fruit trees.
It flowers earlier than apple, so late spring frost is a real danger; it needs a pollination partner and is particularly susceptible to fireblight.
We have no plant on our list for this combination. Loosen the filters a little, or ask us at the site visit.
Sand, loam, clay or chalky, stony ground: the drawings show what lies beneath the surface, how to recognise your own soil and how to improve it. We also describe the soils you can expect in eastern Budapest and the Gödöllő Hills.
Loose, weakly structured sand with a little humus and lime, slightly alkaline.
Structureless, lime-rich sand in which humus barely shows any more.
Pale yellow, calcareous sand deposited by the ancient Danube, the material the soil formed from.
Dark, humus-rich loam (approx. 2.8% humus), neutral pH; heavily compacted by cultivation.
The bottom of the former undisturbed humus layer, also heavily compacted loam.
Dark yellowish-brown loam with a cloddy structure, in which humus drops to around 1%.
Loose, calcareous (approx. 19% lime), alkaline loess-like sediment.
Black, humus-rich, strongly clayey layer (KA 68), compacted by cultivation.
Dark, clayey alluvial layer (KA 70).
Heavy clay (KA 72) with extensive gley mottling and iron speckles, both signs of long-standing waterlogging.
Clayey alluvial layer in which groundwater appeared at a depth of about 160 cm.
A topsoil layer of fine-crumbed sandy loam just 6 cm thick.
A layer mixed with rock fragments that leads from the topsoil into the bedrock.
Fragmenting dolomite directly above the solid rock.
Solid carbonate bedrock.
Cross-sections show how much topsoil turf needs, how wide and deep a tree’s planting hole should be, and how deep the pipes of an automatic irrigation system run. Where sources disagree, we give the full range rather than a single number.
Freshly cut turf of even thickness arrives with a thin layer of soil; on good-quality rolls this is 1.3-1.9 cm, and ideally it has a similar texture to your garden soil.
Loose, good-quality topsoil. The District XVI council's turf replacement allows for 10 cm of topsoil and the Purdue University guide for about 15 cm; if your soil is poor, spread a layer of compost or peat about 1-2.5 cm thick over each square metre and mix it into the top 15-20 cm.
The RHS advises digging or rotavating the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm so that no compacted layer is left; don't rotavate clay soil in wet weather, because a compacted pan forms beneath the tines.
Undisturbed soil. Fill in any hollows where water stands on the surface before you lay the turf, and install drainage and irrigation pipes at this stage.
Tap or hover over a layer for details.
Organic mulch over the planting hole; leave a 10 cm gap around the trunk and don't heap it into a cone, because mulch touching the trunk can cause rot.
Use the leftover soil to form a low, ring-shaped ridge along the outer edge of the root ball, so that water soaks into the root ball instead of running off. The sources used give no figure for the height of the ridge.
The root flare, where the roots spread out from the trunk, should be level with the soil surface or slightly above it; when planting, remove the top third to half of the wire basket and hessian.
Backfill with the original soil you dug out, working it in between the roots so that no air pockets are left; Kansas State advises against mixing in organic matter, and according to the RHS fertiliser is of no use at planting time either.
In compacted soil, loosen the sides of the hole with a garden fork so that the roots can spread outwards as well.
Small trees don't need staking, but support a larger or top-heavy tree low on the trunk with a flexible tie, so that the root ball stays firm while the crown can still move. One RHS guide describes a stake driven in at a 45-degree angle; take the stake away after two or three years, or after one year according to Kansas State.
Tap or hover over a layer for details.
When watering starts, the water pressure lifts the nozzle above the grass, and afterwards it retracts; the Rain Bird 1804 head, for example, pops up 10 cm.
Pop-up sprinklers must be installed flush with the ground; the body of a head with a 10 cm pop-up is about 15 cm long. Where mowers or vehicles pass over, connect the head to the pipe with a flexible swing joint.
Don't bury the solenoid valves directly; put them in a valve box so you can get at them for repairs, and set the box in place once the trenches have been backfilled.
The pipe running from the solenoid valve to the sprinkler heads. The Hunter guide specifies trenches 15-20 cm or 25-30 cm deep, while Rain Bird gives the usual trench depth as 15-30 cm.
The main pipe from the water connection to the valves, which is under constant pressure; Hunter recommends laying it 25-30 cm deep unless local regulations require otherwise.
These pages look at one question at a time in detail, from ground cover and drought tolerant plants to hedges, soil types and planting a tree. Weeds are the villain here, so if you’re looking for allies against them, start with ground cover.
Mainly from the plant profiles of the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) and the Missouri Botanical Garden, along with published Hungarian soil studies and professional guides. We list the source next to every plant, soil type and layer guide, so you can check any figure yourself.
Because the Missouri Botanical Garden’s USDA zones apply to a continental climate with cold winters and hot summers, which is the kind of climate Budapest has. Where no such figure existed, we used the RHS H rating, which tends to be more cautious because it was made for wet British winters.
No, none of the recommended species appears on the EU list of invasive species or among the species we checked on the Hungarian expert lists. That is why lilac, buddleja and mahonia were left out, and we also dropped Chinese wisteria because it spreads on its own even in the Buda Arboretum.
The simplest way is the hand texture test: wet a tablespoon of soil, roll it into a thin sausage and try to bend it into a ring. If it falls apart, the soil is sandy, if it bends into a ring without cracking, it is clay, and loam sits somewhere in between.
If you’d rather leave the design, planting, turf laying or irrigation to us, tell us what you have in mind and we’ll call you back within one working day. The site visit is free, we send a written quote afterwards, and you can write to us in English.
Quicker by phone? Call us on +36 20 944 3464.
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